Ask Dr. Schultz
For a mid 40’s woman concerned about wrinkles, when evening out skin tone, is glycolic or retinol better to use at night? Especially since hydration becomes an issue as well?
I know you promote glycolic as very important ingredient to use, how is that different from retinol? Is one better than the other? And to keep skin hydrated as these can dry out skin (already an issue for 45 year old) do you think an oil is better for mature skin? Sometimes I feel nothing is getting absorbed into my skin, just sits on top, especially anything under the eyes, difficult to keep that area hydrated
Hi Diana, thank you for your great question. I believe glycolic is the gold standard of exfoliation, that’s because it’s very gentle yet effective, and doesn’t cause irritation. I used to use retinoids in the 1980s, before glycolic was available. Retinoids are effective exfoliants but are much more difficult to use, require a prescription and commonly can cause irritation, sun sensitivity and even broken capillaries. I have countless stories of patients and viewers being irritated by retinoids because they’re so therapeutically brittle. When glycolic became available in the early 1990’s, it quickly became my exfoliant of choice as it’s much more effective and much less irritating.
An exfoliant shouldn’t dry out your skin. However, if hydration needed, then it’s not about oil, but water. An oil can help maintain moisture, but your skin needs a water based product with or without oil in it. I suggest using a richer moisturizer like BeautyRx’s Soothing Moisture Cream, or another that you like, to maintain optimal oil and water balance.